March 25, 2021

“Just like on Instagram and YouTube, so-called “hack” TikTok videos are enduringly popular, especially those pertaining to beauty. A scroll through TikTok’s “For You” pages will bring up a winged liner application workaround for hooded eyes and even a lighting trick for more flattering selfies. Like those two, some of these hacks are harmless and actually very useful — but sadly, all too many are not. In fact, skin experts would advise against them entirely,” explains Daniela Morosini in Refinery29.

Experts are most concerned about these 4 potentially harmful social media skincare trends: tantouring, coffee scrubs, at-home microneedling, and DIY chemical peel attempts.

In an attempt to skip the time-intensive contour makeup technique, but still mimic the look, some consumers are trying out “tantouring,” or “sunscreen contouring.” 

Tantouring involves only applying sunscreen to the parts of the face where a highlighter would typically be used, like the cheekbones, or around the eyes. Some tantourers also attempt the dubious skincare trend by applying sunscreens of varying SPFs to different parts of the face.

The idea behind tantouring? To create a semi-permanent “natural” contour, sans makeup.

Not surprisingly, dermatologists and skincare experts alike give “tantouring” a big thumbs down.

“Rachel Nazarian, MD, a board-certified dermatologist based in New York, describes the practice as “ludicrous,” and a sort of “Sophie’s choice,” where you pick and choose what parts of your skin you’re prepared to damage or potentially lose to skin cancer for the sake of a makeup-free contour. “Tanning is always a sign of sun damage. It’s a sign of a mutating effect trying to take place on the skin and the skin trying to protect itself,” explains Taylyn Washington-Harmon in Health.

Bottom line? Sunscreen is for protecting the skin, not attempting to mimic a popular makeup technique.

Consumers love to reveal smoother skin with exfoliation. However, the new trend of scrubbing the face with rough, grainy coffee grinds has some experts worried.

“I’m not a fan of abrasive DIY scrubs on the delicate skin on our face. I recommend various acids for exfoliating the skin, such as AHAs or BHA,” Eva Nydal Abildgaard, technical product researcher at health and beauty brand New Nordic, told Glamour.

There are two kinds of exfoliation: physical and chemical. Physical exfoliation uses manual scrubs (like coffee grinds) to slough off dry, dead skin cells. On the other hand, chemical exfoliation, like with superlative exfoliator glycolic acid, works to gently dissolve the bonds holding dead skin cells together.

Chemical exfoliation is considered a much more gentle option, as physical exfoliation can cause micro-tears or abrasions to the skin of the face.

Bottom line? Better to skip the coffee scrubs, and stick with chemical exfoliation.

Microneedling, also known as dermarolling, skin needling, or collagen induction therapy,  is a cosmetic procedure where the skin is repeatedly punctured with tiny, sterile needles.

While microneedling used to be a procedure only performed in office by professional practitioners, handheld microneedling devices are now sold online, with little regulation. The issue? DIY microneedling carries a multitude of risks.

To begin, if the devices are not properly cleaned and sterilized, they can harbor bacteria, which could lead to breakouts or infections. Additionally, DIY microneedling can exacerbate common skin conditions like rosacea or eczema. 

Even worse? “It could potentially cause permanent scarring and darkening of the skin,” Dr. Saya Obayan, board-certified clinical dermatologist, told Healthline.

Bottom line? Microneedling should be a procedure performed by professionals, not social media influencers.

One more dangerous skincare trend sweeping social media is homemade “chemical peels.”

In many of these homemade “recipes” users mix and match a variety of natural ingredients, like citrus fruit, with traditional skincare products like serums or toners to create their own at-home version of a chemical peel.

But this kind of kitchen sink approach to chemical peels can result in inflammation, irritation, and worse.

“The natural pH of the skin is between 4.7 and 5.7, while citrus fruit juice is about 2, so applying these to your skin will disrupt the natural barrier function of the skin and allow things through that shouldn’t, such as certain types of bacteria that can cause acne,” aesthetic doctor Ifeoma Ejikeme told Refinery29. “It’s also dangerous to put citrus fruits onto the skin and then go into the sun. It can cause phytophotodermatitis, nicknamed ‘margarita burn,’ a result of a chemical found in citrus fruits reacting with sunlight and causing inflammation of the skin, resulting in burning, redness, and blisters.”

Bottom line? Mixing and matching ingredients can irritate and burn the skin. Cobbling together “DIY chemical peels” is a bad idea. 

Social media is a fun way for consumers to connect and share information about skincare. However, quack and dangerous skincare trends could can cause more harm than good to the health and appearance of the skin.

Bottom line? Scientifically researched formulations with proven track records of delivering results are the safest, most effective route to healthier, glowing skin.

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