Dermaplaning is a skincare treatment that exploded into popularity within the last two years.  

The treatment involves using an exfoliating blade to skim off dead skin cells and hair from the face. Also known as microplaning or blading, dermaplane devotees love this unique technique for removing “peach fuzz” facial hair, boosting skin softness, and creating a smooth canvas for better, easier makeup application.

Additionally, dermatologists note that dermaplaning can help skincare products absorb more readily, as dead, dry skin cells on the surface of the face can stunt product effectiveness.

While experts agree dermaplaning can be an efficacious way to remove dead skin cells and improve the skin, it’s important to note that this technique comes with one big caveat. Since dermaplaning involves the use of a surgical scalpel, the technique should only be performed by a doctor or licensed medical aesthetician, like professionals at a plastic surgeon’s or dermatologist’s office.

“Don’t trust just anyone to perform the procedure…and please don’t try this at home,” warns Brooke Shunatona. “Since dermaplaning is performed with surgical scalpels (not your average razor), leave it to the pros to avoid nicks, ingrowns, and stubble.” 

Unfortunately, a plethora of “at-home” dermaplaning tools currently abound in online marketplaces, along with dangerous and inaccurate social media tutorials about “at-home dermaplaning.”

Experts worry that this proliferation of private dermaplaning tools is leading to a bevy of negative results, from cuts, bumps, and stubble, to the more serious risks of infections and permanent scarring.

“I see a lot of scratched, red skin on women who have tried doing it themselves,” skincare specialist Dr. David Jack explained. “The scalpel I use is laser-cut, unlike machine-cut razor blades, so it cuts through the downy vellus hair without irritating the follicles. Whereas a razor pulls on the hair root and causes those little bumps.”

In addition to the dangers of at home use, dermaplaning is also not the best exfoliation technique for many consumers. For those with acne, rosacea, or otherwise easily irritated, sensitive skin, dermaplaning is likely too harsh a treatment.  

Instead, a chemical exfoliant like glycolic acid is a gentler, safer option to slough away dead skin cells, combat acne breakouts, and create a smoother, brighter skin tone.

Thanks to its small molecular size, glycolic acid is able to penetrate the skin cell barrier quickly and effectively. Once applied, glycolic acid breaks down the bonds holding damaged, dry, or flaking skin cells onto the surface of the face. By “melting” these damaged skin cells away, regular glycolic acid use sheds off dead skin and reveals smoother, more evenly toned skin in a less irritating manner.

Additionally, glycolic acid is great for reducing acne breakouts, giving it another one-up on dermaplaning. By dissolving the dead skin cells and excess sebum that plug a hair follicle and create a raised blemish, glycolic acid can combat current breakouts and work to prevent future issues.

In short? Glycolic acid is an affordable, effective exfoliation treatment that can be safely used on many different skin types.

Dermaplaning is an effective, if expensive, skincare technique that can help consumers find tighter, brighter complexions. However, formulators have a continued responsibility to warn consumers about the dangers of attempting to dermaplane at home.  In the meantime, better skin can be safely achieved with  the use of products that incorporate glycolic acid, the most effective exfoliator around.